By Lee Man, on November 16, 2017
The food is equally simple and straightforward. Except for the fried garlic oil on the gailan – there are no modern or gourmet flourishes. It’s real and grounded in reality. It’s what Chinese seniors eat when they meet up with family, it’s what nearby office workers eat for a quick a filling lunch, it’s what I want to eat when I crave good comforting food.
The cooking is very well done. I’ve had the daily soup twice now – and though it’s never pretty – there is slow cooked depth, clean sweetness, and the grease and scum has been carefully decanted off. Just like mom’s – literally. The garlic oil gailan is terrific – the vegetables themselves are perfectly cooked – jade green, balancing tenderness and bite. The curried beef brisket is slow cooked to deep melting tenderness – an old Daisy Garden recipe dating back decades.
My favorite BBQ meat has been the roast pork belly, and apparently other customers agree as it tends to sell out quickly. The ratio of fat to meat is perfect, what the Cantonese would call “five layers of flowers pork belly”.
Still early days – the menu and kitchen is still evolving. The dishes are all rice based right now – and I hope they are able to get soup noodles on the menu. There are few things I like better than BBQ duck with thick rice noodles with clear broth.